Hello everyone! I hope all is well in your part of the world.

In my last Vlogs, I spoke about Impact Attenuation, HIC (Head Injury Criteria), and GMAX. I also validated that G-max measures the highest acceleration produced by an impact. At the same time, the HIC score is a factual measure of impact severity based on research on the relationship between impact accelerations and the risk of head trauma. A lot, huh?
I also discussed critical fall height (CFH), which measures how well a surface absorbs impact and provides insight into its ability to protect against injury.
We learned that “Use and Fall Zones” are the surfaces under and around the equipment onto which a child who accidentally falls or exits from it is expected to land area.
Now that we have learned this crucial information about playground safety, it is time to discuss the main components of a synthetic turf playground.

“Nailer boards”

· If the playground exists and DOES NOT have a border to contain it, you will need to install some perimeter edging as in a border, like a nailer board, hardscape, railroad ties, or concrete curbing.
· This means that the components and materials used in the playground installation process must be contained and secured by an exterior border or edging.
· Railroad ties were a favorite until they started containing playgrounds with hardscape materials such as concrete curbing and concrete walkways.
· Plastic composite edging is now the go-to for the sports and playground nailer boards.
· Unlike wood, plastic will not degrade and split. It can withstand harsh conditions, and when installed correctly, it’ll last for decades.
· A nailer board also prevents any settlement of the exterior edge from extensive foot traffic and remains ADA-compliant.
· And remember, the shock pad thickness will always dictate the established height of the nailer board and imported graded, compacted fill.
· I recommend securing the plastic nailer board with concrete embeds and a strong adhesive that will assist in the bond between the board and the concrete.
· Prior to installation, I recommend drilling a ½” hole every 18 inches on center down the entire length of the nailer board. This is for two reasons.
1. The holes will prevent the plastic composite from “warping” when temperatures get really hot.
2. The drilled hole in the nailer board will also allow the adhesive to seep through and “plug,” and “lock” the connection, creating a solid bond for longevity.

· I also recommend using “redheads” or an equivalent fastener to secure the board along with adhesive.
· As I had mentioned, the adhesive will prevent the plastic nailer board from pulling away due to thermal contraction and expansion.
For tight curves and bends, I recommend heating the plastic composite with a plumber’s torch. This works great when fitting the nailer board tight to the surface.
Come join me next time when I’ll speak on Shock pads “Dos and Don’ts, until next time?
JW OUT!!!